We are living the life. We wake up to a quiet room, stumble down to a solid breakfast, swim in the pool overlooking vineyards and eat Michelin-star food. Life is good in Barolo.
I wake feeling groggy from the big night last night. I meet my mom and the kids downstairs for breakfast (this arrangement we have with the kids sleeping in my parents’ room is incredible). We sit again on the little patio and enjoy a nice breakfast. Then we go swimming!
Both kids are so excited to get back in the pool, so we prioritize that today. I’m really surprised by how fearless they are in getting in the water. Neither has had swim lessons, and yet they seem so ready to start swimming. I bought little ring floaties for them to wear around their waists, and they seem to give the kids the necessary security to kick and swim in the water with me and my dad. It’s really nice.
Some dark clouds move in, and it gets a bit colder. We decide to call it quits for now. After a nice shower, we head out to start the day. It’s 12:15pm. We drive to Alba because Stefan wants to check out the underground Roman ruins there. Unfortunately we can’t get an English tour, so we just go to lunch. We’re always satisfied with a good meal as a substitute for historical knowledge! Sad, but true.
Our new friends from yesterday told us about a restaurant in Alba that has 3 Michelin stars. It runs a bistro for the masses downstairs. La Piola is exceptional. We sit on the enclosed terrace on the square looking out at the church. The gnocchi and ravioli are the best I’ve ever had. It’s not cheap, but it’s still excellent value.
We walk through the church on the square. Beautiful. I’m worried I’m not appreciating the awesomeness of churches now. They are all so great. Luckily our kids are still happy to go in and marvel at them.
//Grandpa notes> The Italians really know how to build a church. (Wait a minute. Is it politically incorrect to think that Italians are better at building churches?)
We take a break back at the hotel. Oly sleeps, I write, and Stefan and Lillian go swimming. It’s beautiful and warm outside.
//Grandpa notes> And who knows (or cares) where Grandpa is?
About 5pm, we realize we have to get out if we plan to do anything else today. Lillian, my dad and I set out for the main street in town, leaving Stefan to catch up. My mom stays with Oly so they can both get more rest. We walk up the stairway to the main street and find it buzzing with activity. There are many wine shops and wineries open for tastings. We find a cute one without anyone in it: Borogno. They charge by the glass, but I request to do a side-by-side tasting without paying per glass. It’s a bit silly to pay that way when there are a couple of us and we plan to buy some bottles. The woman there is very nice and pours us some of their classic wines that she already has open. For the first time, we all like the least expensive one best!
//Grandpa notes> Back to the good stuff. The Borogno is really good. I am bringing back a few bottles that we will age for 5-10 years. Stop by on Debbie’s 70 birthday and maybe we will pull a few corks.
//Grandpa notes> Admit it, this is the best picture you have ever seen of Kimberly and Stefan.
Stefan has another one of his mysterious instincts and asks if there’s a roof deck where we can take wine. Our host says yes. I’m shocked. How does he know to ask such things?! We buy a bottle of our favorite wine and get in this glass elevator that makes me feel like we’re visiting Willy Wonka. We go up several flights to the roof. It’s a little tower with a long table and 360 degree panoramic views! Incredible. Anyone visiting this region has to go here. Just buy a glass or bottle of wine and take the elevator to the top. It’s paradise.
//Grandpa notes> It is funny that we are sitting around in a boring tasting room until Stefan goes exploring and finds the roof top deck. This is the best spot in Barolo (or maybe just the best spot anywhere) to drink a glass, or bottle, of wine. And the Borgono really is good.
Our host suggests one of her favorite spots for dinner, Rossa Barolo, just down the street.It doesn’t seem like much from the street, but there’s a beautiful patio behind the building! We really hit the jackpot with this place. The staff are extremely kind and welcoming. The “mother” of the place keeps hugging the children. They seem genuinely happy we are there. The menu is simple. My handmade ravioli with butter and sage sauce is very good. The kids love the gnocchi with ragu sauce. Our host describes the desserts, and Lillian immediately says, “I want to go somewhere else for dinner.” We all erupt laughing. She isn’t pleased with the choices, which include a lot of chocolate and little ice cream. The host is so nice and asks what she needs to bring so Lillian will stay. Lillian says strawberries. The woman is doubtful but comes back to the table happy to announce they have some strawberries!
//Grandpa notes> It almost feels like we are eating with the family in their backyard. Loved this place.
Around 9:30pm, we make our way back home. Lillian can’t wait to get in bed. Actually neither can I. It’s been a long, wonderful day.
Your trip sounds more and more amazing by the day! We are enjoying following along via the blog. Saluti!
The Italians are so hospitable. I was touched to read the owner of the restaurant brought Lillian some tasty strawberries.
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