It’s our last full day in Barolo, and we decide to take it easy. We’ve seen and done so much on this portion of our trip that we want to make sure we have plenty of relaxation today. Little do we know we will be treated like royalty today.

We start with our breakfast that my mom and I are now tired of. The coffee is good, but the food is pretty bad for us. We can’t wait to make some eggs or oatmeal at our next place.

Grandpa notes> Temperatures actually came down enough that Oly has his jacket on.  The topknot is still awesome.

The kids are too eager to get in the pool again, so my dad takes them for a short swim. Lillian now swims around the pool by herself with the floatation ring around her. And Oly is more bold, wanting to swim with grandpa without his ring. I’m so impressed.

Grandpa notes> Yes that is my Grandson with the hair half way down his back.  Of course you see what happens when it dries out and gets its kink back.

We get ready and finally take off for a place some friends recommended, Castello di Verduno. I’d emailed them, but hearing no reply, we decide to just drive the 20 minutes to check it out. Verdant is a small town on the other side of La Morra. There doesn’t seem to be a lot there, but it’ll be awesome to have lunch at this castle our friends suggest.

We snag a prime parking spot in the center of town and walk into this large courtyard outside a house marked Castello di Verduno. Just the entryway feels expensive. Uh oh. There is a huge yard out back with some tables set up with white table cloths. Completely expecting a “no way” look, I ask if the 6 of us can have lunch. She says no problem but please wait 10 minutes and gestures to the yard. We walk around the yard, finding a couple spots to sit. The view is incredible, looking out on the Barolo valley with the snow-capped Alps in the background. Wow. We watch them bring tables out and arrange them in the shade. Chairs, table cloths and silverware follow. This is nice.

We order white wine made here on the property, and it is very good. Though I’ll admit almost anything would be very good with this view, environment and weather. It’s all just wow. The menu is impressive and simple. It’s one of the first places in Italy without an english translation, either in print or spoken, but it doesn’t matter. We just go for it. We start with beef carpaccio and a vegetable quiche thing. Yes, that was my translation from Italian. Lillian and my mom order lasagna, but it’s different from the expected lasagna, with zucchini pesto instead of red sauce and a bit deconstructed in arrangement. Lillian gives it to my dad and eats a lot of Oly’s gnocchi instead. My risotto is super good, so Lillian helps with that one as well.

Lunch lingers on in just the right way, when you have nowhere else to be and nothing pressing on your mind. The kids run around and play in the huge yard, at times with another little boy, only 19 months old. They all play so sweetly together. There is nothing bad to say about this afternoon. It is perfect. This place is a must for anyone visiting the Barolo region. It’s special. They have rooms to stay a night or two, but they treat you like a guest nonetheless.

Grandpa notes> Because of the setting, this was the most memorable meal of our time on this silllyfamilyadventure.

We drive back home where Oly naps. Lillian and my dad go swimming, and I take grandpa’s place after awhile. He wants to go taste at the Enoteca (wine shop) below the museum that was closed Wednesday. It turns out paying per pour at a place that has little heart takes most of the fun out of wine tasting. You aren’t just buying wine; you’re paying for the memory of the entire experience. You’re buying wine from the hands of the person who made it, in their home, with their mother playing with your kids. It’s the whole package, and an enoteca can never suffice after you’ve had that.

Grandpa notes> After this tasting i decided an Enoteca is a waste of time.  I can taste and buy Italian wine in the States.  Without the experience of sitting down with the winemakers it’s just no fun.

The whole gang meets back up at the Enoteca in town, and we walk down the main street in search of a new experience. A place I’d seen conducting a tasting earlier this week is happy to receive us, despite it being 6pm on a Sunday. But the host never pours me a glass, despite me being the one to go inside, discuss the tastings and order them from him. And when I tell him my mother loves white wine, he ignores us and pours red for the guys. I don’t like to read too much into behavior that seems sexist, but something strange was going on here and it made me not want to buy wine from him. Plus, his Barolo wines are merely okay.

Luckily we find the guy at Damilano is willing to receive us at 6:30, when he normally closes. We order two tastings here, where you have to pay for the experience. I don’t usually approve of this, but this place has expensive wines, and I want to try them. Particularly, they have one from the Cannubi vineyard, which is well-known as a fantastic vineyard supporting wonderful wines. We do the “Barolo tasting” for 15 Euros/person. The first is the blend, which is alright, then we try two single-vineyards. They are super good. Dad buys a couple bottles, so the guys ends up not charging us for the tastings after all. This is never explicit, but it seems to be the case everywhere we go.

Grandpa notes>  I believe they wineries have waved the tasting fee every time that I bought wine.

We walk next door to La Cantinetta, a restaurant I’ve wanted to visit since I learned of its wonderful egg in pasta dish. The egg is pasta is so perfect in every way. There are even truffle shavings on top. Just wow. And everything else is delicious too. We order rabbit, chicken and pasta. The value is super high here. I’d highly recommend it for great food. We sit on the front patio, and it gets busy. Only one guy mans the whole place, so he gets somewhat curt a few times. I think it’s his way, and it seems to serve him well. But when we ask for a glass of the house red wine, he sets a (very nice) opened bottle of wine on the table. Then when we order one dessert, he says, “I’ll bring you something to share.” It’s nice, but it’s also his way of managing everyone at the same time. By the way, the desserts are the best we’ve had in Italy.

We walk home with the moon shining and some stars twinkling in the sky. Although it’s 9:30pm, we go to my parents’ room and have a dance party on the enormous balcony. It’s so fun when the kids are in this mood, running around freely. I feel bad taking photos or videos. It’s fun, but at the same time it drains some of the magic from the moment.

Grandpa notes> The dance party was awesome and not every experience can be captured in a picture.  I tried, but it was too dark.

Finally bedtime. Dreading the travel day tomorrow, and wishing we could stay a few more days.