Today we find how easy it is to hang out in Bologna, with or without kids. Nice streets, great food and fun sights without crazy crowds.

Our fantastic Airbnb luck had to run out some time. I tried to make lasagna last night and found there was no oven. I did a load of laundry and found the drying rack only fit 5 small items. The beds are rock hard, leaving my body aching this morning. There’s very little light and fresh air. The toilet ran for an hour last night until we removed the panel on the wall behind the toilet to manually fix it. Then when trying to boil water for our coffee this morning (we’re sticking to instant at home nowadays), we find there is no pot. Just a couple frying pans. We’re in a great location, but this Airbnb is by far the worst yet.

The kids are unbelievable sweet this morning. They play together well, and then when it’s time to get ready, Lillian insists on putting on Oly’s socks and shoes for him.

We love walking tours, and Stefan found one that takes us by different waterways throughout the city. Behind our building is one of the waterways. It’s very interesting to see water flowing through the city, knowing it’s underneath the building across the street. This water was used for mills throughout the city. Bologna had a big silk spinning industry.

We walk along one of the main streets, under a large portico of course, until we reach a cute little cafe, Il Paninoteca The coffee bars here, and throughout the Italy we’ve seen, is an actual bar. You stand at the copper bar and order from the barista. I love it. This is the best cappuccino I’ve had on this trip. And the kids dig into special treats that are basically donuts. It’s fun to watch people come in, sip their espressos and leave within minutes. Efficient.

So maybe all that sugar wasn’t the best idea. Oly is an absolute mess. First, he’s full of a ridiculous amount of energy, running in circles with Lillian as we walk down the sidewalk. Then he just refuses to walk and is upset by everything. We walk to the main square, where the Basilica di San Petronio church sits. The first thing one notices is the facade is only halfway finished! And the lack of scaffolding says they don’t seem to be finishing it anytime soon.

The church is very nice and has a meridian line through it. I understand this is important, but I am not sure on the specifics. Oh well. One thing that’s peculiar is they ask for 2 Euros per camera to take photos. It makes me not want to take pictures, but Stefan hands over 2 Euros for me.

As we walk down some smaller streets, we pass a tiny entryway. It’s a very old church with some sculptures from the 1400s. And it’s free. Perfect. There’s one sculpture to the right of the altar that requires 3 Euros to see. We’re too cheap, but Lilian wants to see it. For the first time, we let her get a free ticket and go see it. She’s very mature about it. Spends 5 minutes looking at the sculpture, then comes back to me. I can sort of see her through some pillars, and there’s a staff woman there.

Next door is a marketplace. We walk through the different stalls, and it all looks very good. Then on the other side is an Eataly! We’ve eaten at Eataly a few times on this trip already, but Stefan can’t imagine eating anywhere else today. We sit on the second floor (the first is a book store) and enjoy lovely pasta and goat. The staff are particularly wonderful with the kids.

This part of town is so cute, with small walking streets and lots of shops. We walk over to the Teatro Anatomico, housed in the old city library. The library has been here for centuries, but much of it was reconstructed after an American bomb landed right in the center during WWII. The Teatro Anatomico is an old classroom where cadavers were dissected for learning about the human body. The walls and ceiling are intricately carved, and it’s beautiful. But this place is historical because The University of Cologne is the oldest university in Europe. And the first woman professor at a european university was here. It’s still a university. The library here is supposed to be truly incredible. It’s reserved for students and staff, but we get a glimpse of it from another lecture hall.  

On the walk home, we stop for gelato at Majori. I didn’t have any, but Stefan said it wasn’t good and threw his away. I think the kids have much lower standards.

We spend the rest of the day working at home while the kids play. It’s a small space, but they don’t seem to notice.
We make a simple dinner at home. For a space as tiny and uncharming as this, it’s unbelievable the amount of time we’ve spent indoors today.