After walking the whole city yesterday, we can relax and maybe see another museum today.

It’s another working morning, so we leave the house for lunch. We walk to Mali Bar, a cool little spot off the main road and actually behind a few hostels. The food is delicious.

After they’re done eating, the kids put on a dance contest, then a singing contest, then a ballroom dancing contest. It’s awesome.

The kids want to take the funicular, so we walk over there and hope to visit a museum on top of the hill. This is the shortest funicular I have ever seen. It’s ridiculous. Like everyone should just walk up the hill. But we take the funicular, and it’s a fun, 20 second ride.

On top of the hill, I visit the artist again and buy one of my favorite prints.

We walk the same streets as yesterday, then a bit father to the city museum. The kids are now so thirsty they may die, so we can’t enter the museum without water. The vending machines in the museum steal our money, so we go to the cafe around the corner.

At first we can’t find it, but it’s a cool space on the backside of the building. Palainovka is a really lovely place to sit and relax. The kids get their water, and we play some games. At some point I do something wrong because Lilian is in the stinkiest mood. She isn’t very pleased that I capture it so well on camera either.

Eventually they’re both happy again and play on the bike rack like it’s the coolest piece of playground equipment they’ve ever seen.

As we begin to head back to the museum, we realize we don’t have much time before I’m supposed to take the kids to a friends’ house. Wow where did the afternoon go?! Oh well, the city museum looked pretty old and uninteresting for kids anyway. We walk (scoot!) down the hill to the main square where trains heading all of the city stop.

The kids and I board a train that takes us to Maja’s house in 5 stops. It’s really easy, and the kids absolutely love riding public transportation. But they’re so happy they won’t stop talking, and maybe everyone on the train doesn’t appreciate that as much as I do.

We arrive at my friend Maja’s house at 4:30pm. Maja and her family just moved back to Croatia from Stockholm, where our kids used to be in school together. Lillian and Oly run up the stairs to the first floor, leaving me to follow carrying their scooters. They haven’t seen a friend in 3 months! Lillian’s friend, Manuela, rounds the corner and immediately hugs Lillian. They are so happy and run off to play in Manuela’s room. Oly and David just stand and stare at each other. Boys are so funny. They are very happy to see each other, but they play it so cool.

Maja and I sit on her couch with some white wine from her favorite winery in Istria. She has gone above and beyond to entertain us this afternoon/evening, treating us to special Croatian foods and drinks. It’s so nice to visit with her and hear about their transition back to Croatia. I’m so happy for her to be back near family, friends and a culture she loves. For awhile, I think we both forget we aren’t in Stockholm. There’s something very comforting about hanging out with her again.

About 6:30pm, Stefan arrives to join us for dinner. The kids already ate, so the three of us sit at the table sampling the dishes she made for us. The traditional beef with gnocchi is incredible. I will try to recreate it in NY with her recipe. We open many bottles of wine and have a really nice dinner party, even calling Maja’s husband, Marco, to make him jealous. Maja surprises us with Croatian gifts. Mine is this beautiful collection of lavender. So incredibly sweet. 

Lilian and Manuela take a crazy big bubble bath in their jacuzzi tub. They are having the time of their lives. Oly is pretty jealous when we leave and Lillian gets to stay for a sleepover. It’s a short Uber ride home, and we’re in bed in no time.

Tonight was simply amazing. I think the best way to truly experience another place is to have dinner at someone’s home who is from that place. There’s nothing like it. Maja showed us the real flavors of Zagreb with her food but also with her amazing hospitality.