We want to visit one of the surrounding islands today, and we’ve chosen Hvar based on a few people’s recommendations. It turns out to be the most perfect day we could have asked for.

We walked along the water last night and spoke to several tour operators about trips out to the islands. It would be very cool to visit the Blue Cave, which is only accessed by a narrow passageway by boat. Croatia has a unique landscape, and I want to experience as much as possible while we’re here. But they want us to pay half-price for the kids, making it 330 Euros for the four of us. That’s just too much. So this morning, we decide to just take the catamaran ferry over to Hvar and see where the day takes us.

The ferry over is fast, but Oly is super high energy. Maybe the most I’ve seen on public transportation. It’s exhausting, so we are pretty happy when we can get off. That said, the ferry isn’t a bad experience. They even have a cafe with decent cappuccinos.

We arrive in Hvar at 10:45am and immediately go change our ticket to leave from 3pm to 7:30pm. We realize we’ll want much more time and flexibility to enjoy Hvar. We walk along the harbor, glancing at the boat tour deals. We pause at one that says island hopping tour. They guy is very polite and explains the day’s itinerary. Then the cost: only 250 kroner/person. (That’s a little over 30 Euros/person). The kids are free. And that includes lunch. Stefan and I look at each other and say done. We jump on the boat just before it sets sail at 11am.

//LL picked these two pictures and wants everyone to know.   “They are a little but she decided they could be a little lighter so you could see it”

The boat is surprisingly sparsely populated. Most guests are on the upper deck sunning themselves in deck chairs. We remain downstairs with two other people, and enjoy an exceptional experience driving out between islands on crystal blue water. We are so happy we jumped on this boat.

First swimming stop. We are anchored in a small bay and everyone jumps off, some even from the upper deck. The water is so perfect. In fact, it’s so salinated that it takes very little effort to stay afloat. Lillian swims with Stefan for a few minutes. I think it freaks her out that you can see the bottom so clearly.

Second stop. We go to a shop on the shore for some snacks, then walk about ten minutes through the island to a small beach on the other side. The beach is mixed sand and stones. Stefan and I swim a lot. Lillian loves swimming around with us in her ring. Oly prefers to stay on the shore, playing with sand toys in the shade of the chairs.

We go back for lunch on the boat at 2:30pm (thus the snacks on the beach). It’s surprisingly good! Whole fish and chicken served with tomatoes and cabbage…and white wine.

When we’re done eating, the crew toss the extra food into the water. Fish fight for the scraps.

We make some friends, one from Sweden and the other from Columbia, on the boat. Great conversation, perfect weather and incredible views.

Third stop. We anchor near a small cove where people jump off and swim to shore. Lillian is really excited at first, but then she gets freaked out about the deep water here. She’s fixated on the ridiculousness of the boat stopping here instead of pulling in closer to shore. Oly is crazy too. He doesn’t want to get in the water. They are both tired.

Oly falls asleep on Stefan while we are trying to convince him to wear his swimsuit. Poor baby. He rests the rest of the hour and a half tour on the bench. Lillian needed a nap too, but she pushed past her fears to swim awhile with us.

The boat ride back to Hvar is beautiful. We can’t believe this day in paradise.

We arrive back in Hvar with about 2 hours to explore before our ferry returns to Split. We walk around the main old city, which is built on a set of hills, so every street is a set of steps. It’s enchanting. The light-colored stone on the buildings and underfoot lends an other-worldliness to it all.

Oly and Lillian begin complaining of hunger. It has been 3 whole hours since they ate lunch. These kids. We pass an amazing little spot, but they inform us they don’t open until 7pm. Instead they direct us toward the ferry boats (not a place we’d normally look for foot) to a place that’s good and traditional, 4 Palme.

When we arrive, we learn it’s the oldest restaurant in Hvar. Our server is very nice and selects a nice local white wine for us. The day is perfect. The weather. The setting. The whole thing. We get the mixed grill, which is very good, and the seafood risotto, just okay. Stefan orders mixed fried fish that is just what it sounds like. The server explains that the fisherman won’t let them pick and choose the fish to buy, so they have to buy these small fish as well as the larger, desirable ones. We know why no one wants them. Blah.

The ferry back to Split is packed, but it’s also a much nicer boat. The seats are very comfortable, and there’s even a small playroom for the kids! Stefan and I have to sit separately because there aren’t many empty seats remaining, but the kids don’t even need seats. They spend the entire ride in the playroom. They eventually make a friend, Marydel, who is from Boston.

We chat with her family as we’re getting off the boat and end up walking all together to the best ice cream in town, Luka’s. It’s near their Airbnb, so it works out well. Lillian and Marydel skip down the road hand-in-hand. It warms my heart.

Luka’s is really good. They have interesting flavors, different from the norm but not totally crazy. We stand around and chat for awhile, then say our goodbyes and head home.

We walk through Diocletian’s Palace a little on our way home. It’s so beautiful. It surprises me even though we’ve been here twice before! Lillian gets sad on the way home, missing her new friend.